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Muriel's Goat Cheese and Shrimp Crepes at IFBC NOLA

 

Goat Cheese and Shrimp Crepes- Photo Courtesy of Foodista

 

After finishing our delightful lunch at Commander's Palace, Nancie MacDermott and I rushed back to the venerable Hotel Monteleone (the lobby was bustling even on a sweltering NOLA night in late August) in the French Quarter, to the opening sessions of the International Food Blogger's Conference. Following a panel discussion, and a time of shared tips from extremely talented food photographer and stylist, Andrew Scrivani (take a look at his portfolio), we were treated to a reception showcasing the wines of Navarra, with treats from Muriel's Restaurant. There were frittatta bites, and prosciutto wrapped asparagus served, certainly worthy complements for Spanish wine, but the standout treat of the reception for me was a home grown NOLA dish, the Shrimp and Goat Cheese Crêpes. Not much surprise there-3 things I love (crêpes, goat cheese and shrimp) in one dish! Chef Gus Martin, of Muriel's (located in the heart of the French Quarter), kindly shared the recipe with me to post here. BTW, Chef Gus trained in the kitchen Commander's Palace, under the watchful eye of Chef Paul Prudmhomme and Ms. Ella Brennan, like so many of New Orleans' chefs.

Also, you can get a recipe for crepes and view a video of me making them at my small pleasures catering blog by clicking the link in the recipe, which you'll find below...

Good Luck for the New Year Italian Style-Cotechino and Warm Lentil Salad

Cotechino and Lentils with Sautéed Tuscan Kale

 

Okay, I’m a Southerner by birth and in much of my food tastes, but to tell the truth, I have never liked black eyed peas, which are the traditional Southern dish, along with greens (greens for money, and the legumes for good luck), eaten for luck at New Year’s.

So I was happy to learn from Creminelli Fine Meats that in regions of Italy, Lentils and Cotechino, a mouth-watering sausage, originating in the Modena region and spiced with clove and garlic, is the New Year’s good luck tradition. I broke out a favorite recipe of mine, Lentil Salad, and warmed it up to serve with the Cotechino. In keeping with tradition, I’ve sautéed some Tuscan kale with garlic to add to the platter.

And lucky for you, Creminelli has generously offered to send a New Year’s gift of Cotechino directly to one of you so that you can welcome 2012 properly, too. 

Just leave a comment here at this post, and then retweet the post (and send me a note or comment with tweet URL) for a second entry. But hurry, this contest ends soon, on the 29th at Midnight, PST. BTW, this is my very first contest, so please respond generously! 

Bon Appetit and Good Luck!

Crabmeat Gratin-A New Orleans Classic with a Jarlsberg Twist

Crabmeat Gratin with Jarlsberg

I am so grateful to Jarlsberg USA , who as I mentioned in my last post, made my August trip to New Orleans and the International Food Bloggers Conference held there possible. I've recreated this classic dish, found in many venerable New Orleans restaurants, with Jarlsberg as my tribute of thanks. It's a great dish-a bit rich, but it's only a small serving, so feel free to indulge. I recommend it as a first course for a fancy sit down holiday dinner-like the French (and still observed in some restaurants and quarters of New Orleans) December holiday réveillon (from the word réveil-meaning "waking"-the late and long meals served on Christmas and New Year's Eves) dinner. And by the way, It happens to go great with Champagne.

Enjoy!

Looking Back at 2011 in Gratitude

In spite of the many difficult things this year brought, there was still so much to be grateful for, a loving and supportive family being the most important.

And as I look back, there are also many to thank in the realm of food blogging, and over the next few posts, I’ll be sharing more about them, along with recipes, but for now, here are the people and happenings making it on to my gratitude list for 2011.

1. I am truly grateful to Ronnie Campbell and Jarlsberg USA for their continued support. In the spring, Ronnie commissioned me to work on a Summer Garden Party menu featuring Jarlsberg. I invite you to view the entire menu, and test some of the tasty results like Jarlsberg Vegetable Canapés, Jarlsberg Stuffed Shrimp Cakes and great Summer Vegetable Frittatas for yourself. As always, Ronnie was a delight to partner with.

2. And speaking of Jarlsberg USA and delight, I was overjoyed that they sponsored me to attend the International Food Blogger’s Conference in New Orleans at the end of August. I had intended to post a series reporting back on the trip shortly after returning to L.A., but life intervened. It was a fabulous time, however, and the series, albeit a bit delayed, is still coming-kicking off soon with a great interview with Ti Adelaide Martin, general manager of the legendary Commander’s Palace in New Orleans. So please check back.

BTW, Ronnie sent me this great Jarlsberg T-shirt to wear at the conference. It captured many an eye, as you can see the burgers are rather prominently featured. Ronnie's response- “well, you will be around the corner from Bourbon Street.”

3. While I’m remembering sponsors, I have to thank Lindsay Olives for sponsoring me to attend Camp Blogaway last May. They sent a case of their Black Olives and their wonderful new Lindsay Green Naturals for me to play with. Take a look at the Fiesta Cheesy Olive Spoon Bread and the Chicken PIccadillo Chiles Rellenos I created using them.

 


4. More opportunities came to create featured menus when the lovely Barbara Blake invited me to create menus to feature at her website, Smooth Jazz Sunday Brunch, including a Summer Sonoma Winery Picnic Brunch, and at and At Home for the Holidays Brunch featuring yummy Cheese Blintzes with Chunky Apple Compote, Shiitake Stuffed French Toast and Spiced Pumpkin Waffles.

5. Speaking of summer and wine, there were many sponsoring companies that allowed me to revive a much beloved summer tradition in my household-the Rosé Fest, my tribute to pink wines. Big thanks to all the wineries (please check out the list at the Rosé post) that contributed their delicious fruits of the vine, and to Melissa’s Produce, the California Fig Board and Creminelli Meats for sharing product that I was able to use in creating tasty and properly rustic summery dishes to accompany blush wines. BTW, Creminelli has generously offered one of their custom salume products-one traditionally served at New Year’s for luck-to give to a lucky reader at my very first blog giveaway. So please check back next post to enter the contest.

6. Okay-this company is one I should have thanked last year, but their gift to me lasted well into 2011. Albert Uster Imports sent me a surprise chocolate goody each month for a year. Not too good for the waistline, but oh, soooo yummy. You can check out a few of the treats at my Valentine’s Day post.

 7. I’m grateful to Ballantine’s PR for inviting me to dine and get away at two of the fabulous resorts they represent-Coast Restaurant at the Canary Hotel in Santa Barbara, and the Portola Hotel in Monterey. Because of the turmoil in my life this fall, I have not been able to tell you about the Portola Hotel yet, but I promise I will soon. Hint-if you’re a beer lover, you must check back for that.

 8. I am truly grateful for the food blogging community, for all the wonderful fellow bloggers I met at IFBC in New Orleans, for the old and new friends I spent a weekend communing with at Camp Blogaway in Big Bear, and for our local Food Bloggers Los Angeles community. You’ve all been a uniquely supportive and nurturing bunch that I am proud to be a part of. 

And last, but certainly not least, a BIG THANKS to all of you, who continue to check in and read my blog, even when I’m not too regular about posting (I commit to being better in 2012), and giving me your feedback through the comments you leave. And don’t forget- next week I’ll be doing my first giveaway contest. So come back and leave a comment!

 

Bon Appetit!

 

Meeting John Besh, Eating at Restaurant August and Recipe for Brown Butter Fig Tart

John Besh, Barnaby Dorfman of Foodista, and future foodie (Photo courtesy of Foodista)

Although everyone I mentioned it to, leading up to my interview with John Besh, said he’s such a great guy, I still wasn’t prepare for how completely impressed I would be with him. He’s charismatic, warm and thoughtful, and (icing on the cake) tall with boyish good looks tempered by a tiny bit of gray that’s beginning to touch his temples.

Chef Besh spoke to the attendees of the International Food Bloggers Conference after our Saturday night wine pairing dinner at the Monteleone. I had a chance to observe him out in the hallway before he took the stage. Everyone wanted to greet him. Women hugged him, the men shook his hand, he was even kissing babies. When I got the chance to speak with him at his flagship Restaurant August, the Monday after the conference, I said to him, “You should run for mayor. You’re such a natural.”

“I’ll leave that to Mitch,” he said, laughing. “He’s doing a great job. And Ray. I really liked Ray, too.” And such a diplomat, too.

My cousin Paul, who luckily called me just as I was preparing to go to lunch,  and I decided on the 3 course pre-fixe lunch for only $20.11, an incredibly great deal, but as we looked over the menu perusing our options, our server came to the table, and said, “Order lightly. The chef is going to send out several items for you to taste.” We were served an incredible array of amazing food. When we were finished-more like when we just couldn’t eat any more- Paul looked at me and said, “I have never had a meal like this!”

We began with two amuses bouches- the first a Fish Mousse (served in a delicate eggshell) with Truffle Sabayon and Bowfin Caviar, the second an Asparagus served (again) with Truffle Sabayon and a (barely) Poached Quail Egg.

Asparagus with Truffle Sabayon and Poached Quail Egg

Then we were served the first course of our prix fix menu- for Paul, a Salad of Grilled Chilton Peaches, Aceto Balsamico, Basil Pesto, Bacon Crisp and Whipped Ricotta. For me- this luscious Pâté de Campagne of La Provence (Besh's own hog farm) Pork with Pickled Wild Mushrooms and Seasonal Marmalades (I especially liked the peach), served with thick slices of toasted Brioche.

Then 3 hot appetizers- a Green Curry Bisque with Gulf Shrimp, Potstickers and local Heirloom Chile Peppers (Paul pronounced this his favorite dish), a Sweet Corn Agnolotti with Chanterelles, Petit Tomatoes and Field Peas, and a handmade Potato Gnocchi tossed with chunks of Blue Crab and Black Truffle. Truffles- again! I thought of my L.A. food blogging buddy and truffle junkie, Erika Kerekes, knowing she would love eating here.

Corn Agnolotti

And now for our entrées: Pan Seared Gulf Sheepshead with Silverqueen Corn Custard, Succotash (that’s what the menu called it, but I saw all sorts of yummy and unexpected things like black eyed peas, summer squash and figs in the mix) and Tomato Vinaigrette; Crispy Mangalista Pork Belly with Creole Cream Cheese Malfatti (a kind of gnocchi), Mustard Greens (Paul said -these are not your mother’s mustard greens), Tomato Confit and Sauce Blanquette, and Pan Seared Louisiana Blackfish with Tarragon Pistou (which I  found absolutely delicious!), Petit Summer Vegetables and Candied Blood Orange.

 

Gulf Sheepshead with Corn Custard

 

Crispy Pork Belly with Malfatti and Mustard Greens

 

Louisiana Blackfish with Tarragon Pistou and Petit Summer Vegetables

 Are you just completely drooling and sated yet? Save room for dessert...

When Robert Kerner, the wonderful captain recommended the Brown Butter Tart of Celeste (a local variety) Fig with Bourbon Ice Cream to us, I declined, saying, I make a fig tart of my own that I love, opting for the Milk Chocolate Peanut Butter Croquant with Salted Caramel and Mc Ewam's Buttered Popcorn Ice Cream ("people ask me what Buttered Popcorn Ice Cream tastes like, Robert said, "I tell them it tastes like being a kid"). But fortunately for me, the kitchen sent out their fig tart anyway, along with the desserts we ordered. So-okay, I guess one can never have too many good fig tart recipes in their repertoire, and I’ll be adding this one to mine. Yep, it was that good. 

Milk Chocolate Peanut Butter Croquant with Salted Caramel and Buttered Popcorn Ice Cream

I know some of you have been waiting patiently to hear reports back on my trip to New Orleans. Ah-the rest of my life has forcefully raised its head since my return, but there's lots more to come, including a sit down interview with Chef Besh, Susan Spicer, chef/owner of Bayona, and the irrepressible Ti Adelaide Martin of the Brennan family, and general manger of Commander's Palace. So keep checking back. In the meantime, you may want to give the Brown Butter Fig Tart a try. Recipe follows  ... 

Dropping by Coop's Place- and Catfish Meunière Recipe

Coop’s Place is nothing fancy- just a dive with great food and low prices on their wines by the glass. It’s frequented by locals- the French Quarter characters one of my aunts still calls “hippies” (another friend refers to them as French Quarter rats), as well as working people from the nearby Central Business District, and tourists. I was first introduced to Coop’s Place on the first post-flood Mardi Gras, where we were entertained by a nimble server snaking his way through the standing room only joint with arms stacked full of plates. 
 
When I was last at Coop’s, there was a house kitty lounging lazily on a wide window sill above me-Stella-I thought that was quite an appropriate name for a French Quarter cat. I regretted that I didn’t get a pic of Stella, so was hoping to get one this time around.

I asked my waitress where she was today.

“Unfortunately” the waitress responded “some assholes around Mardi Gras (no doubt a dig at tourists) complained about her. She retired to a house down the street with a nice courtyard.” I don’t know, I kind of like the idea of a cat in a restaurant, I’m thinking. Keeps the rodents away, at least. Then she added “but she still shows up on Sundays sometimes, when the regulars come for brunch.”

BTW, just in case you haven’t figured it out yet, the servers, are part of Coop’s charm-even their Website refers to the bartenders as “snarky”. Although there are “Be Nice or Leave” signs in many restaurants around the city, the one at Coop’s reads “Be Nice or Starve”. Fortunately, I’ve never starved at Coop’s, and this time the waitresses let me hang out most of the afternoon, taking advantage of New Orleans very enlightened free wireless policy. All of the businesses in the Quarter and the Central Business District share free wireless internet access, in fact, you can most times pick up one of their networks just sitting out on the sidewalk.

At Bayona:

 

At Satsuma:

 

At Coop's Place:

 
Coop’s menu is full of New Orleans classics like Gumbo, Po’Boys, Shrimps Remoulade and Creole, Red Beans and Rice, Jambalaya, even old time dishes like Oxtail Stew.

I really like their great version of dish Chicken Tchoupitoulas (a Paul Prudhomme creation), a real deal still priced at $13.95, and last time had another redfish dish, but this time I went for the Redfish Meunière. Fish with Meunière Sauce is one of those dishes you see all over New Orleans, with redfish, trout, catfish, whatever fresh Gulf region fish is available. It’s one of the dishes on the combo plate I always pick up at Jazz Fest. The version Coop’s served me is a little heavy on the Worcestershire sauce for my taste, though, so when I returned home, I thought it was about time to try my hand at Meunière Sauce.

When I started searching through recipes, however, I realize that maybe there’s a reason I’ve never made it before. The recipes vary widely. One is made with only seafood stock, one with beef stock, and another recommends either beef or veal stock.  Some have up to a half cup of Worcestershire sauce, and some have none. The amount of butter in each recipe varies a lot, too, and a couple are made with a roux, one with only a beurre manié to thicken it. One sautés a mirepoix first, a couple just boil the veggies with the stock, and one just skips them altogether. It’s served both with pecans and without.

Ah well, this is the version I came up with for today. I used a combination of shrimp stock because I had a cup of it thawed out, and a half cup of veal stock from a concentrated base to complete the amount needed. I can see where the meat stock would be good, though, giving it that hefty depth I find so appealing in some versions of the sauce. There's always next time...

Recipe follows:

Rosé Fest 2011-Part 5 Olive Oil Cake with Sautéed Peaches

Olive Oil Cake with Sautéed Peaches

 

Last year a client, celebrating her 25th wedding anniversary, asked me to provide a provincial French style menu for her and her guests.

When it came to dessert, she and her husband were split in what they wanted. He wanted something chocolate, but she wanted an olive oil cake. Olive oil cake? I had vaguely heard of it, but I’ll admit that it sounded strange and unappealing to me. Sometimes, however, having to accommodate a client’s desire for something unfamiliar to me, turns out to be a very good thing.

So I went searching for olive oil cake recipes. Fortunately, I found a recipe of the very talented Suzanne Goin. I have to say that when it came out of the oven, I was still not convinced. The cake was unimpressive looking, to say the least, but a sprinkling of powdered sugar spruced it up.

And to resolve my client’s and her husband’s split desires for their autumn anniversary dinner, I served it, with sautéed brandied pears (Ms. Goin's recipe serves it with DateSyrup, but it's very versatile), on a dessert sampling plate with a slice of chocolate truffle torte (for her husband) with Burgundy wine spiced Morello cherries.

The olive oil cake turned out to be quite tasty, with a unique and comforting appeal. I’ve even grown fond of it as a breakfast treat with coffee, and I’m sure it would make a great afternoon snack with a cup of tea, as well.

And as I thought about desserts to serve at the Rosé Fest, an olive oil cake seemed a perfect choice for a Mediterranean style menu.

Ah, yes- but since it’s the height of summer, sautéed brandied peaches adorned the cake rather than the pears.

So, if like me, you have any skepticism, I urge you to put it aside, and this cake might just become a favorite of yours, too.

Rosé Fest 2011-Part 3 Planked Figs with Pancetta and Blue Cheese

Planked Figs with Pancetta and Point Reyes Blue Cheese- Photo Courtesy of Dorothy Reinhold of ShockinglyDelicious.com

 

Some sort of wrapped, stuffed and grilled figs have usually found their way on to the Rosé Fest menu. After all, when I think of those Mediterranean type summer foods that should accompany Rosés, figs definitely rank high on the list.

This year, in browsing around for info on planking salmon, I ran across an interesting recipe for planked figs. That’s certainly worth a try, I thought, and the try was well rewarded.

The original recipe called for goat cheese, and while I certainly am a fan of goat cheese, I absolutely love blue cheese, especially an excellent artisan blue cheese like Point Reyes, and especially when combined with bacon, so...

The recipe also originally called for sprinkling the pancetta and cheese over the figs and cooking everything on the plank at once, but if you’re planning a menu for a large gathering, have several dishes to prepare and want the figs to be served fresh, hot and with the rest of the meal, I recommend planking on the grill sans cheese and additional pancetta, then finishing the dish with a quick shot under a broiler just before serving. It worked perfectly.

By the way, don’t bother shopping for designer planks stamped with the name of some celebrity chef at a fancy kitchen store. I bought a long plank at a stock lumber yard, and got it cut into approximately 12 inch lengths. Even with the cutting charge, I got twice as many planks for cheaper than I would have paid at those stores, and as a bonus, the guys at the lumber yard traded tips with me about planking.

Recipe follows:

Rosé Fest 2011-Part 2 and a Grand Aioli- sort of...

Salume, Peppers and Olives- Photo Courtesy of David Estep
 
 
Rosé wines embody the essence of summer. They’re refreshing, easy to drink and best consumed well chilled. While they go well with food generally (in fact, many consider them the most food friendly of wines), they are the ideal accompaniment to rustic, well seasoned, sun kissed foods- the sort of foods that I love best.

In the south of France, the stronghold of Rosé wines, they are served with another summer treat, the Grand Aioli- a meal of meats, fish, and vegetables all served with that wonderfully pungent garlic mayonnaise, aioli. In France, the meats, fish and veggies are generally poached. Here in So Cal we like to grill things, so my version of the Grand Aioli included grilled lamb, made into little sandwiches, grilled and roasted vegetables,  grilled shrimp (I am the LA 2 LA Chef after all), Cedar Planked Salmon (my first time, but I’ll definitely be planking again, and while I was at that, I planked another quintessentially summery item- Figs, wrapped and stuffed with Pancetta and Blue Cheese. Another essence of summer dish- an Heirloom Tomato and Burratta Salad- to round things out. Thanks to Greg Henry at sippitysup.com for bringing a refreshing salad of Cannellini Beans and Baby Zucchini laced with slim slices of tender green beans for a bit of crunchy textrure, and my friend Paul Borden for bringing Orzo with Sun Dried Tomato Pesto. There was a bowl of Tapenade to spread on crostini, and plates of Salami, Prosciutto, Roasted Pequillo Peppers and Olives to munch on. And because I just happen to love tarts, both savory and sweet, a Swiss Chard and Pork Salume Tart made its way on to the menu, with a Fig Frangipane Tart and a lovely rustic Olive Oil Cake with Sautéed Peaches finishing up the meal.

Tomatoes and Burrata- Photo Courtesy of Dorothy Reinhold of ShockinglyDelicious.com

You can take a look at the menu (which I’ll be sharing recipes from over the next few posts) on the next page. And to begin- my recipe for Aioli, the starting point of the meal. I like to divide up a big batch, and flavor it with various herbs and spices- think rosemary, mint, thyme, and to go with those Ancho Marinated Grilled Shrimp, I mixed in chipotles en adobo. Menu and Aioli recipe on the next page:

 

Santa Barbara Getaway- Part 5- A Stop Along the Urban Wine Trail

  Photo courtesy of Jay Sinclair


As I drove back from picking up my croissant at the bakery on this, the last morning of my little getaway, I couldn’t help but smile at the sight of the fog insinuating itself over the top of the hills above Montecito as I drove up San Ysidro Road.  Ahhh-what to do on my last day in this paradise?

Santa Barbara is often referred to as the American Riviera, and a ride along Cabrillo Boulevard, which wraps along the coast, truly exemplifies why. This city is a coastal resort town. There are several beach volleyball games being played on the sand, blond girls in bikinis riding bikes along the coast, and groups in people-pedaled carts strolling the grounds of the sprawling Fess Parker coastal resort. Though I am tempted, on this last day of my Santa Barbara getaway, to make the 40 minute or so drive up to the Los Olivos/Buellton area again-especially since I discovered last summer that there’s now an outpost of the excellent Manhattan Beach restaurant Petros ensconced at the Fess Parker Wine Country Resort in Los Olivos-I succumb to those feelings that I just really shouldn’t be driving that much on my getaway. And then, of course, I’ve learned just a couple of nights ago, that there’s a new Urban Wine Trail in the city... 

The Santa Barbara Visitor’s Center is just to my right, at the intersection of Cabrillo and Garden Street, so I drop in for a map to the Trail. I notice, btw, that it’s only about a block from the Train (Amtrak) Station, and make a mental note for a future visit. At the Visitor’s Center, there’s not only a map of the Wine Trail, but visitors can pick up 2 for 1 coupons to tastings offered by many of the wineries. Hmmm- another mental note to self. 

The closest tasting rooms to the Visitor’s Center is that of Kunin, which happens to be one of the most well regarded Santa Barbara County wineries- a good omen. And, once again, I am lucky enough to find free parking- and a spot just in front of the tasting room. As soon as I step in the door, however, I realize (another mental note to self) that Saturday is not the day for someone looking for a quiet getaway to visit. The scene is more like a busy Friday night happy hour with a very sociable bartender handling the crowd, which includes a restless toddler, a dog and even a bachelorette party (complete with its honoree sporting a “bride to be” sash across her chest) jammed into the tasting room. Not the preferred experience for an introvert like me, but hey- I’m sure it is lots of people’s thing. Good thing they have a little couch and coffee table in the corner where I can sip away from the crowd, and enjoy the excellent wines. Unfortunately, they are not pouring their Rosé, but I find their “Pape” Rhone blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre to be outstanding.

And next time I really will consider taking the train up. Walking from tasting room to tasting room, no doubt, does a body good between sips (btw, Metropulos is right along the Trail), and there’s no need to worry about driving home after all that wine sampling.

Bon Appetit!

Note: The Pacific Surfliner train offers some great scenery on the ride up to Santa Barbara. It leaves Union Station in Los Angeles several times a day, and round trip fare from L.A. to Santa Barbara is $48.00.

P.S. Come back next time when I go on more about my love affair with Rosé wines, and we visit the Rosé Fest wine tasting held at my home.